Discovering the Allure of Marrakech
Morocco stands as a remarkable leader in both African and global tourism, earning recognition as the top destination on the continent and ranking thirteenth worldwide. The country offers an array of experiences that cater to diverse interests, from the vibrant culture and luxury found in Marrakech to the business hubs of coastal cities like Agadir and Casablanca, and the rich history and multicultural architecture of cities such as Fez and Rabat. In a remarkable surge, nearly 20 million tourists flocked to Morocco in 2025, with Marrakech alone drawing in approximately 40 percent of that total. Thus, when I received an invitation to partake in a friend's 80th birthday celebration in this enchanting city, renowned for its stunning red ochre buildings, I was overjoyed. My previous visit to Casablanca for an academic conference in the late 2000s had only fueled my desire to explore Marrakech and Fez further, a longing that had its roots in my youth when I watched the British spy film 'Our Man in Marrakech' in the 1960s. I was captivated by the actors' navigation of the souks' intricate and colorful alleys while evading capture, as well as the high-speed car chases through the arid Atlas Mountains.
In preparation for our journey, as is customary when visiting new cities, we dedicated the days leading up to our departure to immersing ourselves in YouTube videos and blogs, meticulously crafting our itinerary to ensure we could experience the best of what Marrakech had to offer.
An Unforgettable Birthday Celebration
Over the years, I have attended countless birthday parties, yet the two-day celebration in Marrakech stands out as an extraordinary event that I will remember for its unique style, meticulous organization, stunning setting, and sheer joy. With just over fifty attendees from various countries, the party size was intimate yet lively. The festivities commenced with a “Meet and Greet” at a chic rooftop restaurant in the Medina on the eve of the birthday party, featuring a soulful Arabic song performed by local artists to honor the celebrant. It was heartwarming to see the nine grandchildren and a great-grandchild, all dressed in purple—the color of the occasion—dancing joyfully alongside their vibrant matriarch.
The following day, the birthday party unfolded at the exquisite boutique hotel Jnane Tamsna, nestled in the exclusive Palmeraie district and owned by a designer of Senegalese and Guadeloupean descent. This stunning hotel sprawls across nine acres of lush gardens adorned with date palms, olive groves, and organic vegetable patches. The celebrations took place across three distinct locations: an apéritif on a rooftop terrace that offered breathtaking views of the gardens and the clear blue sky, a banquet set in a secluded area of the gardens, and a cake-cutting and dance party in the main hall. The children and grandchildren delivered moving speeches during the banquet, while friends and family shared heartfelt words at the cake-cutting ceremony.
The crowning moment of the evening was the celebrant's grand entrance on the rooftop while we savored an array of delicious finger foods. The organizers had set the scene by using the back section of the rooftop to bring in the celebrant on a lavishly adorned Moroccan throne, known as the Amariya, carried by four men in flowing white robes. In Moroccan culture, the Amariya is traditionally employed to carry brides during wedding ceremonies. As the music rose in volume, guests at the back began to sing and dance to Tina Turner’s “Simply the Best.” As the sun began to set, I could hardly see the four men bearing the throne amidst the crowd, and for a fleeting moment, I genuinely believed that Yvette was descending from the heavens! It was an enchanting experience.
For over seven hours, we revelled in a continuous celebration of eating, drinking, conversing, and dancing to a diverse mix of Western, Nigerian, and Sierra Leonean music. The entertainment was equally thrilling, featuring traditional Moroccan dances, captivating belly dancing, and jaw-dropping fire-eating performances.
After the birthday festivities, we dedicated five additional days to exploring Marrakech and its surroundings. The city is brimming with attractions, and while it was impossible to see everything, we devised a straightforward strategy to guide our adventures. Most historical sites are located in the Medina, the old city, while our hotel was situated in the newer district of Guéliz, requiring a forty-minute walk to reach the Medina.
The iconic Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech’s most famous square, became our daily reference point. We either walked or took a taxi to the square each day, opting for a tuk-tuk (or keke, as they are known in Sierra Leone and Nigeria) for our return trips. Back home, we typically avoided kekes due to their notorious accident rates; however, in Marrakech, they were not the primary mode of transportation—formal taxis and buses were prevalent. Nevertheless, tuk-tuks and motorbikes (known as okadas) were the favored means of transport within the narrow Medina alleys.
Our favorite dining spot, Chegrouni, featured a rooftop terrace overlooking the Jemaa el-Fnaa square, where we relished tagine and couscous. The square truly comes alive in the evenings, filled with traditional music, snake charmers, vibrant fruit juice stalls, street food vendors, and numerous hawkers vying for attention. While the street restaurants were bustling, we made the error of ordering a seafood platter that turned out to be disappointingly bland, an experience that overshadowed our subsequent visits to the street eateries, despite enjoying mixed vegetables and chicken pies on another evening.
Just a stone's throw from the square lies the majestic 12th-century Koutoubia mosque, where two of us joined local worshippers for prayers on our second visit. Touring the Medina from the mosque and the square proved convenient, making it our go-to destination for shopping almost every day. While exploring the intricate souk alleys with my wife Kadie and friends Monica and Gloria, we indulged in sampling argan oils, medicinal herbs, spices, traditional perfumes, bracelets, and kaftans. Unable to resist, I also purchased a kaftan and traditional herbs touted for their remedies against the common cold, muscle pain, and snoring. The persuasive herbalist at the Merzouga Cooperative, donned in a long white coat reminiscent of a medical doctor, showcased the healing and aesthetic properties of his products, leading us to collectively spend over USD1,000 in his shop!
Alongside a small group of birthday guests, we ventured to the breathtaking El Bahia Palace, renowned for its expansive late 19th-century Moroccan-Andalusian architecture and intricate ceiling designs. Our itinerary, which also included Monica and Gloria, featured visits to the stunning Ben Youssef Madrasa—the oldest Islamic college in the Maghreb—as well as The Secret Garden, tucked away deep within the crowded Medina. We also explored the Culinary Arts Museum, where we observed Moroccan cooking classes and enjoyed a delightful rooftop lunch.
Our exploration continued with a trip to the 16th-century Saadian Tombs, where we marveled at the stunning Chamber of the Twelve Columns. We concluded our Marrakech journey with visits to the El Badia Palace and Jardin Majorelle towards the end of our holiday. El Badia, an imposing ruin of a 16th-century royal palace, is famed for its towering mud-brick walls and vast courtyards. Our initial attempt to visit was thwarted by a festival closure, and during our return trip, a spice seller incorrectly informed us that the palace remained closed, seemingly upset that we had not patronized his shop. Undeterred, we entered to find the palace bustling with visitors.
The enchanting Jardin Majorelle, created by French artist Jacques Majorelle in the early 20th century, was later purchased and refurbished by the legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. This 2.5-acre garden showcases lily ponds, soaring bamboo groves, and palm trees, along with a rich collection of over 300 species of cacti, some of which are truly extraordinary. A top tourist attraction in Marrakech, visitors are required to book online a few days in advance and are assigned a specific time slot for entry. Regrettably, I mistakenly booked through an agency rather than the official website, resulting in a significantly higher ticket price. Despite the oversight, the experience was absolutely unforgettable.
In the following days, Kadie, Monica, and Gloria indulged in a traditional hammam—steam bath and cleansing ritual found in nearly every neighborhood. The process involved an attendant coating the body in black soap made from olive oil and crushed olives to soften dead skin cells. Once rinsed off, a coarse cloth known as a kessa was used to vigorously scrub the entire body. Kadie and Monica couldn't stop raving about the experience of seeing rolls of dead skin being removed, concluding with a refreshing cool bath.
We capped off our vacation with two days in the Agafay Desert and the Ourika Valley. In Agafay, we rode camels, witnessed a stunning sunset, enjoyed a sumptuous buffet, and were entertained by traditional Moroccan dancers and a fire-eater. The Ourika Valley offered a beautiful hiking experience in the Atlas Mountains, where we were awed by a powerful waterfall. These two extraordinary experiences truly deserve a blog post of their own.
As reported by dailytrust.com.
